DIY: Rustic Window Valences

When we moved to Raleigh last February, it was a fairly quick move. We came here for Tony’s work and only had about a month to find something. Luckily, we came across the house we are still currently in. We kept our house in Indiana to travel back and forth to and decided it was best to find a home to rent in Raleigh since we didn’t know how long we would be here for. When we first moved into the house, it was pretty bland. Builder grade paint, no trim on the windows, etc. but it was a cute house- I loved the layout! The windows had no character and since it was a rental, I didn’t want to invest in making and putting up trim… knowing we will one day move out… so cue back up plan: window valences. They are so simple to and best of all- super budget friendly! Even if you do have cute trim around your windows, this DIY will be sure to add even more character!


Materials You’ll Need:

  • Plywood or 1″x10″ 8′ boards
  • Brad Nailer
  • Brad Nails
  • Hammer & Nails (*Only if you don’t have a nail gun)
  • Wood Glue
  • White Chalk Paint
  • Wood Stain (click here for the stain I used)
  • Paint Brush
  • Paper Towel
  • Picture Hanging Hardware (click here)
  • Nails
  • Miter Saw or you can have the wood cut at Home Depot.


First, I started by measuring my windows. I wanted them to hang about 6″ out from the window on each side to leave room for curtains in the future. To get the correct length I needed, I measured the width of the window itself and then just added 12″ to the front part of the valence. For example, one of my bigger windows measured 71″, I wanted a 6″ overhang on each side, so 12″ added to that is 83″, but I rounded up one more inch to do an even 7 feet. You can have the overhang as wide or narrow  as you’d like, especially depending on your window size & trim. For the two sides connecting to the front part of the valence, I wanted it to come off about  4 – 4.5″ from the wall. Depending if you already have decorative trim you can come out a bit more to have more room for bulky curtains or whatnot.

I’m a Home Depot kind of gal when it comes to buying lumber. I I sometimes go there like I would to target. For no particular reason, just to give the girls and I something to do. I like to walk through the isles and see what I could use for inspiration for the next project. Just like with Target, I don’t always go to there because I need something. I go to target and let target tell me what I need, because it’s nearly impossible to leave that place empty handed. Same way at Home Depot/Lowe’s. I always check the clearance lumber section as well when I’m there! Sometimes they have great wood that’s totally salvagble for a fraction of the price. While looking through the clearance lumber, I stumbled across this massive, super nice, thick sheet of  plywood for $10. It had nothing wrong with it whatsoever and ended up being perfect for this project!

I had the guy there rip the entire thing into 10″ thick long strips- so I ended up with a bunch of 1×10’s even though I was just planning on doing two windows. (I’ll take it!!!) I took the boards home to cut myself with my miter saw, but you can definitely ask to have them cut to your desired length at your hardware store as well! There are three parts to these valences- the front, and two sides. If you do have them cut there, be sure to give the correct measurements and remember to include the extra 12″ from the window measurement for the front part. For the two sides, with my extra scrap wood I had two 4″x10″ pieces cut. Don’t forget the side pieces!

Next, take the skinny side of the ‘side panel’ and put a strip of wood glue on it. Carefully place the glue side on the very edge of the front panel. This should make it flush. Use your brad nailer and nail all the way down the side from the front part of the valence (In the photo below, shows the back side of the valence). Repeat on the other side.

Once my valence is put together, I starting the “rustic” process. I stained the wood with Minwax in the shade “Jacobean” on the entire front panel, front bottom, front sides, entire side panel, bottom of the side panel, and the back side of the side panel. Basically anywhere that can be seen.

If you plan on painting this with a solid color instead of the stain/white wash, you can easily fill in the tiny holes and seams on the side with wood puty filler if you prefer. It will give it a more smooth finish.

For the rustic white washed look (after staining the whole valence), lightly dip your paint brush in the paint, and literally wipe/dab it all off on a paper towel. There will be very little left on the bristles and that’s what you’re aiming for! Do light strokes back and forth on the board. You don’t want to do the entire board in the white wash, but in different sections to give it a more realistic “rustic” look!

After it dries, Attach your hanging brackets on the back side panels and you’re ready to hang it!


Share, Like, & Comment if you loved this tutorial! Be sure to tag @katieperridesign if you try this out yourself! I can’t wait to see them!

DIY: Rustic Door Light Sconce

I think I’m obsessed with wall sconces. They are just such a different way to add light and I want to put them in every room in my house! Unlike table lamps, they don’t take up table space and easily adds volume to your wall. In this DIY, I will be showing you how simple it is to create a unique light using an old door and a plug in light sconce and all you need is a drill!


Materials & Tools You’ll Need:

  • Old Door
  • Plug In Light Sconce (I got mine here !)
  • Drill


I bought this incredibly heavy and chippy door from the coolest antique market here in Raleigh! It’s my favorite place to find all of my vintage and antique finds. I wasn’t sure how old the door was, but I wanted to make sure the paint was safe considering I have two little nuggets running around. For the preparation, I lightly sanded the big chipping paint pieces that were basically dangling by a thread just to prevent them from falling onto the floor in the future or getting in the way of the cleaning process.

The door had two sides. This cool chippy reddish brown color, and the other side- an off white. I chose to put my sconce on the white side because I thought the weird red would clash with my color scheme. I took some mild soap and a sponge and went to town. I tried to be really gentle because I like the way it naturally chipped and didn’t want to take all of the paint off. After scrubbing and scrubbing, my sponge was disgusting. So much dirt and grime that was accumulated over the years came off. With some soap and water, it literally became 5 shades lighter and I loved it even more!

To install your light sconce on the door, follow the instructions it comes with, or if you’re like me sometimes; wing it and hope for the best. I chose this specific sconce because 1, I loved it, so that helps….. 2, it swivels. & 3, because it has the ability to be plugged in with a flip switch OR be used with electrical wiring if want to get fancy with it. I didn’t want my chord hanging down in the front so I drilled a small hole and stuck the wiring through. You don’t need to drill a huge hole to fit the plug part because the cool thing about this sconce is that you can actually take the plug part off and make your chord either longer or shorter! Once you’ve stuck the wire through to the other side, attach the plug park back onto the cord and attach the scone to the mounting piece with the screws!

And that’s it! So simple & it takes under 10 minutes. I loved the way it turned out because it’s such a different way to add light to any area and makes for cool wall decor. Sometimes I struggle to find ideas for filling up a large wall- and this DIY seems to do the trick. You can add light sconces to antique shutters, a chalkboard, or an actual wall. Whatever your heart desires!


Share, Like, & Comment if you loved this post! Be sure to tag me in your super simple DIY so I can see how yours turned out! 

DIY: The Easiest Shiplap Wall For $40!


It seems as if shiplap or plank walls are going up in just about every home these days (thanks Joanna Gaines). I’m not mad about it, because I love the way it looks! It compliments any style of a room- whether it being a mid century modern vibe, traditional setting, or the modern farmhouse (duh)! For this particular ‘shiplap’ wall, I was going for a really bright and airy vintage/antique theme for my daughters nursery, and what better way to brighten up the room, then to add a plank wall! I think it suits the theme well.

I wanted this project to be as budget friendly as possible and without damaging the drywall (incase we move- I didn’t use wood glue, but I recommend using it for a stronger hold). If you love this cute faux shiplap wall just as much as I do, follow these simple DIY steps below to create a nice modern or farmhouse feel to any room in your home!




Materials You’ll Need:

  • Underlayment Plywood (4 ft. x 8 ft. Sheets)
  • Wood Glue
  • 2″ Brad Nails
  • Wood Filler/Puty
  • Sandpaper
  • Paint
  • Paint Brush
  • Nails (*only if you don’t have a brad nailer/brad nails)

Tools You’ll Need:

  • Brad Nailer
  • Jigsaw (if you have outlets on your wall)
  • Hammer (*only if you don’t have a brad nailer)

You can rip the sheets with your table saw, or you can have someone at your local Lowe’s or Home Depot rip it for you. To save me time and effort, I just had someone at Home Depot to do it for me 🙂 A table saw is not required for this project.


So here’s what I was working with- a really dim, bland, and “not what I envisioned for a nursery” room.

  • First and foremost- MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE. I measured from the top of my baseboard to the ceiling (you can always take your baseboard off and measure from true floor to ceiling, but since the underlayment boards are so thin, it wouldn’t hang over the baseboard- so whatever you choose to do!). Make sure you have the correct measurements before your sheets are cut… because if it’s wrong, how annoying is it going to be having to drive all the way back to the hardware store for a few extra boards. Find the studs along the wall and make marks all the way down from the ceiling to the floor. Doing this helps you know where to nail them in the wall to ensure a stronger hold.

***A little rule of thumb my Aunt Carin taught me to always keep in mind when cutting or ripping wood (at the hardware store), is that the blade on the monster cutting machine at Lowe’s/Home Depot is 1/8″ thick.

So for example: I wanted each row of boards to be about 6″, but remembering that the blade is 1/8″ thick, I had the home depot guy rip the sheets into 5&7/8″ strips to make them fit correctly up the wall.

I made the mistake and bought the wrong size of underlayment plywood but already had them cut and had paid for them, so I didn’t feel like going back to buy and recutting the bigger sheets. Don’t buy the 4’x4′ sheet if you have a large wall like this (if you have a tiny wall measuring a little above or below 4 feet, then then 4’x4′ sheet it will work perfectly!).  It ended up not being a big deal after filling the gaps in with wood puty and sanding.

  • Once you have all of your boards cut, start nailing them to the wall with your brad nailer or hammer! Again, you can choose to put wood glue on the back of each board for the best hold, along with the nails, but I chose to skip this step because I will probably remove the plank wall in the future and I didn’t want to damage the drywall. While attaching them to the wall, I placed 3 nickels in between each board to ensure even spacing.
  • You may run into plug outlets so obviously don’t cover those up. Just measure every direction and use a jigsaw to cut out the space needed.

  • Since buying the wrong size of underlayment, I still wanted all of the boards to look like one super long plank, so I used this wood filler to fill in all of the cracks. Once it dries, sand it down to create the smooth surface.

  • Lastly, paint as many coats as you need, let it dry, step back, and marvel at your new faux Shiplap wall!

I already had the paint and all of the other tools & materials for this project.

The total cost of the project for me was $40 !!!!!! $40 for an entire wall! What a WIN. Am I right?


Share, Like, & Comment below if you loved this DIY! Be sure to tag me in your finished projects posts on Facebook and Instagram. I’d love to see how it turned out!

-Katie Perri



DIY: Bundle of Moss Balls for $5

I LOVE greenery. I would buy allllllll the real/faux plants if I thought spending money on them were more important than buying burritos from Qdoba (If you don’t have Qdoba where you live, I’d suggest moving to a different place that has one near…). I think adding greenery to a room instantly gives it a warm cozy feeling… and the best part, it goes with every season!

Moss balls have become a huge home trend within the last couple of years and I just love the way they look! They are so cute on top of candle holders, in decorative bowls, or inside of glass cloches. I definitely wanted some in my home but I wasn’t crazy about the price once I started doing my research. I looked around at Hobby Lobby, Homegoods, Ballard Designs, etc. and for the amount I needed to fill up my tray I wanted to put them in, it was going cost me around $60-$70…..for moss balls??? Um, no thanks. So I made my own! With this super easy DIY, you can make some for every room without breaking the bank!

The Materials You’ll Need:

  • Newspaper or regular printer paper (I recommend newspaper)
  • Green spray paint (not the tacky lime green… get a dark green or sage green)
  • Spray adhesive
  • Scotch tape
  • Disposable Gloves
  • Preserved Moss

I already had the tape, gloves, a bunch of newspaper, spray adhesive, and ironically, some green olive colored spray paint left over from a previous project, so the only thing I needed to purchase was the moss! They have preserved moss at almost any arts and craft store or craft section in the big retail stores. You can get yours at hobby lobby, JoAnn Fabrics, Etc., but I bought the brand “The Moss Collection” at Walmart for $4. UM WIN. It had really great green coloring. They had others you could choose from- some with twigs in them and some that looked super fake…..if that’s what you’re into. The moss comes in a really large bag, so one was plenty for me and I still had some left over! If you can’t find the large bag, two regular sized bags will do!

Take one sheet of newspaper and ball it up, layering a new sheet of newspaper on top of the ball, taping as you go, until you get the size you’d like for your moss ball. Taping the edges as you layer the newspaper ball helps create a better sphere shape without any weird or bumpy surfaces. Make as many as you’d like! You can make all of them really large, super small, or mix and match. I made all of mine different sizes.

Once you ball up the desired amount, start spray painting! I took them outside and placed them on a plastic drop cloth and went to town. If you’re super impatient like me, you can take a blow dryer and make them dry even faster. Once they were dried I spray painted the part that was missed the first time around while it was sitting on the ground. They should look something like this when they have finished drying (photo below).

Now comes the messy part. Wear the disposable gloves for this part, unless you want moss stuck to your hands. I’d recommend covering your entire work surface with a drop cloth or left over newspaper. Take a ball and spray the adhesive in sections. *DON’T spray the entire ball because your gloves will stick to it (I learned the hard way). Once you have your first section sprayed, start applying the moss like the photo below. Make sure to get all of the bare spots! It sticks really well.

Repeat those two steps until the entire ball is covered, and Voila!!! You’ve made your own moss balls! Stack them on your mantle, put them in your two tiered trays or use them for another project! You really can’t beat making 8+ moss balls for $5 (some are hidden in the photo because the bigger ones are covering them). I still have a few rolled newspaper balls left over so I’m sure I’ll find something else to do with them. 

Share, Like & Comment below if you loved this tutorial & let me know how yours turned out! 🙂

-Katie Perri

The Journey Begins

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Hey Guys! As some of you may know (and for those of you who don’t) my name is Katie Perri. Yes, that is my real name. Just a little about me- I am from the super small town of New Albany, Indiana (it’s the best small town!). I have two little tiny humans- Emma who is 2 and Evvie who is (almost) 1. Being their mom never has any dull moments. It is the most rewarding thing and I am one lucky mama! I am also the significant other to my favorite person in the world, Tony. We moved last February to Raleigh, North Carolina and have been doing life here ever since!

I’d like to consider myself creative and savvy, but over the past couple of years my Aunts, Stef and Carin, have opened my eyes to some of my truest passions. Creating things outside of my comfort zone, like building furniture and design. This website has been a work in progress and I’m so happy to finally share it with you guys! This will be where I share my creations, projects, DIY’s, vintage finds, ridiculous things my toddler says, inspiration, laughter and a little bit of everything in between. You all can even purchase and customize furniture directly from the website! I hope this website and shop brings you as much joy as it does for me!

-Katie Perri

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton